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Experienced archaeologist tour guide offering custom tours in Turkey.

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Spectacular Pergamon

Tolun's private Turkey tours Posted on June 27, 2016 by MarielleJanuary 22, 2017

It was surreal to look up the regular dirty industrial street of car mechanic shops in Bergama and see the stunning gleaming white marble columns at the top of the steep hill further away. I wondered what went through the minds of those hard working men when they glanced up from their oily machinery and saw that sight every single day… It is equally awe-inspiring to see that beautiful masterpiece of Pergamon acropolis looming in the distance while approaching the modern town for our weekly market trip.

Temple of Trajan

Temple of Trajan

An influential cultural centre during Hellenistic period, and a UNESCO World Heritage site now, its ruins are impressive to this day. One of the most famous parts of the acropolis is Altar of Zeus, of which little remains on its original site today. Late 19th century excavations under German instructions resulted in the most of the altar pieces being taken to Germany. Nowadays the reconstructed altar can be seen in Pergamon Museum in Berlin.

Pergamon also housed the second biggest library of its time, containing 200 000 books and rivalled only by the library of Alexandria. It is said that Alexandria did not like its rival in Pergamon, and so it stopped supplying papyrus to it and therefore in Pergamon parchment paper was taken into widespread use instead. So this is where the name pergamena comes from, modified into ‘parchment’ in English. After the library of Alexandria burnt down, Marc Anthony gave the contents of the library of Pergamon to Cleopatra as a wedding present.

Theatre of Pergamon

Theatre of Pergamon and city of Bergama down below

There is so much to see there, but my favourite is the amphitheatre, built for 10 000 spectators, and said to be one of the steepest in the world. Indeed, when standing on one of its steps you can almost feel like all you have to do is to spread your wings and off you go, gliding above and beyond the white marble city towards the green hills in the distance. It is very likely that it was built that way so that in case of a boring play down below, the spectators could admire the more spectacular panoramic views instead.

Walking around this serene place of ancient artistic splendour and looking down to the modern hustling and bustling city is a humbling experience. The world may have evolved in terms of technology, but in terms of beauty…?

View from the steps of theatre of Pergamon

View from the steps of theatre of Pergamon

Pergamon Acropolis
Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged Pergamon, travel, Turkey | 3 Replies

Magic of Cappadocia

Tolun's private Turkey tours Posted on May 22, 2016 by MarielleJuly 23, 2020

I was greeted by a full moon when I arrived in Cappadocia the first time. We stopped at the roadside and walked up to some strange-looking tall cone-like shapes. I could not see much in the darkness but what I saw was otherwordly, literally. I didn’t seem to be on the planet Earth anymore. That’s all I can say about that night. The next morning I woke up in a cave, albeit in a luxurious one with modern facilities, opened the door to outside terrace and there were huge colourful balloons floating over the landscape in front of me, I had not seen anything like that before in my life. I was still in another world it seemed…

uchisar pigeon valley

View from Uchisar over the Pigeon Valley

But of course people are very adaptable, and soon my surroundings became familiar to me. It became normal that I lived in the cave, that there was an ancient tunnel starting from the bathroom, stretching several kilometres and intersecting with other underground tunnels from neighbouring caves. It became a matter of fact to take my meals on the terrace with incredible vistas beyond the village, the colourful valleys beneath me and a lone snow-capped mountain far in the distance. That village was Uchisar, hosting the highest point in Cappadocia – the odd-shaped structure, called the castle, at the top.

view from Uchisar Castle

View from Uchisar Castle

Our walks down to the valley usually consisted of me admiring the surreal landscape around us, while Tolun focussed on inspecting and watering his precious trees he had been planting along the valley. The hot dry summers in the area can be tough on young trees, especially if their fresh leaves and branches are chewed by sheep or goats meandering around. While spring brings nourishing rain and the flowers and trees blossom, it is the relentless heat of the sun that rules the summers. Autumn comes with cool airs again, turning into chilly and snowy, but bright and sunny, winter as the time goes by.

view to Uchisar Village from Pigeon Valley

View to Uchisar village from the Pigeon Valley

Sometimes we would walk along the valley from Uchisar to Göreme. It is a good one-hour walk and because of the fantastic surrounding landscape, one might wish it was even longer. In Göreme we would visit the UNESCO heritage open-air museum with colourful painted churches dug into rocks by early Christians, who were hiding here from Roman persecutions. The soft rock – called tuff – is a result of ancient volcano eruptions. Over the time the ashes hardened and continued to be shaped into fairy-chimneys and gorges and valleys by the nature. Later people began to dig their dwellings and storage places and pigeon holes into rocks. In Uchisar the valley in front of our terrace is called Pigeon Valley as there are many pigeon holes dug into rocks by people who wanted to collect pigeon manure as a rich fertilizer for their farmlands. I climbed up to one of those cones and saw a hollow room inside, small shallow shelves dug into insides of the walls, supposedly for pigeons to rest there. As for the wildlife, besides beautiful pigeons, I have seen many swallows nesting and teaching their young ones to fly, turtles quietly going about their business in the bushes, and some not so wild cats and dogs basking in the sunshine.

fairy chimneys of pigeon valley uchisar

Fairy chimneys of Pigeon Valley

Uchisar itself is a quiet village with plenty of small luxury cave hotels and handicraft and food shops and cafes and restaurants. For majority of the tourists, the castle seems to be the main attraction here, but for me it is the nature surrounding the village that touches me the most.

Uchisar village street

Uchisar village street

view to göreme from pigeon valley uchisar

View towards Göreme from Pigeon Valley

pigeon valley landscapes uchisar

Landscapes of Pigeon Valley

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged Cappadocia, Göreme, Pigeon valley, travel, Turkey, Uchisar, Uchisar Castle | Leave a reply

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