SAINT PAUL'S THIRD JOURNEY
Antioch on the Orontes Derbe Lystra
Iconium Antioch in Pisidia Ephesus Alexandria Troas
Corinth Philippi Thessalonica Beroea Alexandria Troas
Assos Lesbos Chios Samos Trogyllium Miletus Cos
Rhodes Patara Tyre Ptolemais Caesarea Jerusalem
After a short stay in Antioch, in the spring of 53 St Paul set
out on his third missionary journey. This time the main
objective of his mission was again Ephesus, the largest city of
the Roman province of Asia, to which the Holy Spirit had allowed
him to go and preach but briefly during his previous journey. As
he had done before, eager to visit the congregations in Galatia,
St Paul preferred to travel overland, most probably by the route
of his previous journey: by way of the Assyrian Gates, Tarsus,
and the Cilician Gates into Lycaonia. It is very probable that
he visited Derbe, Lystra, Iconium and Antioch in Pisidia to see
how the nucleus of each of these cities was doing. Acts informs
us that after this point St Paul 'travelled through the interior
of the country' (Acts 19:1) and arrived at Ephesus where he is
said to have remained for almost three years. From the Lycus
valley if he followed the Roman roads of the time he would have
travelled through the 'Interior of the country' either by way of
the Meander valley to Ephesus or through Philadelphia (Alasehir),
Sardis and Smyrna (Izmir) to Ephesus.
When, later, the Apostle referred to Asia in his letters (1 Cor
16:19; 2 Cor 1:8), his readers would have understood that this
was the large province on the west of Anatolia. At this time, it
included the whole of the Aegean coast from Caria, through
ancient Ionia and Aeolia to the southern shore of the sea of
Marmara, a little to the east of Cyzicus. It embraced Troas,
Mysia, Phrygia and Lydia and extended inland through the valleys
and headwaters of the Hermus and Maeander rivers towards the
central plateau and the eastern boundary with Galatia. It was
the oldest and wealthiest of the Roman provinces of Anatolia and
it contained several ancient and famous cities, including
Miletus and Smyrna on the coast and inland, the old Lydian
capital, Sardis; further north was Pergamum, the wealthy former
capital of the Attalids. It was the last king of Pergamum
Attalos III who, lacking a legitimate heir, had bequeathed his
kingdom to Roman people upon his death in 1 33 BCE. But the
greatest of all was Ephesus, the splendid capital and cult
centre of Artemis.
The good climate and soil gave rich harvests and much of Asia
was well settled, particularly in the Maeander valley, where St
Paul would have known some people. The roads which ran along the
river beds enabled the rural population to find a market for
their agricultural produce in large coastal cities and the
Aegean world beyond.
In antiquity, the easiest and safest route from Galatia to the
Aegean coast followed the path of the Meander river. To reach
this popular road the Apostle may have travelled by way of
Apamea (Dinar), which had the largest Jewish community in the
region, and Laodicea on the Lycus river (Eskihisar). Even if
there were some Jewish people in Anatolia as early as the sixth
century BCE, their number did not reach substantial Figures
until the reign of the Seleucid king Antiochus III (223-1 87
BCE) when he moved two thousand families from Babylonia and
Mesopotamia to the fortresses in west Anatolia. These new
settlers were given vineyards and grain fields, economic
privileges and were allowed to establish separate groups from
the natives. The major objective of the king was to protect his
valuable territories in Anatolia against the Galatians' raids
from central Anatolia. They were the descendants of the Ten
Tribes which were originally moved to Mesopotamia from Jerusalem
in 597 and 586 BCE by the king of Babylon, Nebuchadnezzar, and
were claimed to be separated from their brothers by 'the baths
and the wines', that is by the luxuries of the Roman way of life
according to the later Jewish literature. It seems that these
Jewish communities survived into St Paul's time because most of
the Roman edicts which confirm the privileges such as the
freedom of sending money to the Jerusalem Temple, exemption from
military service and freedom of worship, come from this region.
When he arrived in Ephesus St Paul's friends of the previous
mission, Aquila and Priscilla, must have met and informed him
about the work of Apollos and the followers of John the Baptist.
St Paul had 'found some disciples' but they had never heard of a
'holy Spirit' and were baptised only with the baptism of John.
St Paul rebaptized them in the name of the Lord Jesus.
In the autumn of 54 St Paul returned to the synagogue where he
had preached during his previous short visit of three years
earlier. He spoke of the Kingdom of God. The idea of a messianic
Kingdom was familiar to the Jewish listeners since their
childhood and for many generations. But St Paul was saying that
it was through Jesus, the true Christ, that this Kingdom was to
be ushered in and established. As elsewhere his teaching in the
synagogue seems to have lasted only three months. Many of the
Jews rejected his teachings.
For the next two years he preached the gospel in the school of
Tyrannus who may have rented his halls to visiting lecturers. To
strangers the Apostle would have appeared as one of the numerous
philosophers who travelled from one city to another sharing his
knowledge and ideas.
As did other artisans in the city, St Paul probably began his
daily task as a tentmaker before sunrise and continued until
closing time at 11 am as is clearly told in the Western text of
Acts. In his speech to the Ephesian elders he reminded them that
his hands served both his needs and his companions. Until about
4 pm when most of the artisans began to work again he would have
been free to devote himself to the missionary work which was the
objective of his stay in the city.
A story in Acts includes the Apostle's dealings with the
exorcists of Ephesus. St Paul's miraculous powers were already
well known. In Lystra he had healed a cripple (Acts 14:8-10], in
Philippi he had exorcised a slave girl with a spirit of
divination (Acts 16:16-1 8}, in Malta he would later heal the
father of Publius, the chief man of the island, of fever and
dysentery (Acts 28:7-8). He continued these practices in
Ephesus, to the extent that the faithful touched their
handkerchiefs or aprons to the Apostle and then carried them to
the sick, crediting the clothes with miraculous healing power.
The fame of Ephesus in charm and magic preceded that of the
other cities in the empire. Its cosmopolitan rich atmosphere
attracted soothsayers, purveyors of charms, magicians or other
people of similar tasks from me distant corners of the empire.
Exorcising spirits in the name of Jesus was widely practiced in
the early church, but the attempt by itinerant Jewish exorcists
to do so was clearly usurpation of authority. Their attempt did
not succeed, however, and they themselves were overpowered by
the evil spirit they sought to control. The point of this story
was intended for all Christians; that healings and exorcisms
depended as much upon the integrity of the healer as upon the
faith of the afflicted. As a result of this incident, some
Ephesian practitioners of magic collected and burned their
books, said to have been worth 'fifty thousand silver pieces'
the equivalent of at least $10,000.
During the time of St Paul's missionary works Christian
congregations of smaller or larger sizes are thought to have
been established at Colossae (Col 1:1) and Hierapolis (Col 4:13)
and at the seven cities of the Revelation: Ephesus, Smyrna,
Pergamum, Thyateira, Sardis, Philadelphia and Laodicea. Whether
St Paul visited all of these cities is not known. Groups of
believers from the country around Ephesus, however, may have
come to listen to his preaching and invite him to their cities
for short stays. He had probably visited and met fellow
Christians at some of these cities as he travelled from Antioch
in Pisidia to Ephesus. The leader of the Christian community in
Colossae was Epaphras 'our beloved fellow slave' (Col 1:7). He
had been active in the evangelization of two other cities of the
Lycus valley, Hierapolis and Laodicea (Col 4:13}. Later, while
imprisoned in Ephesus, Rome, or Caesarea, St Paul addressed a
circular letter to the Colossians which they were to share with
the Christians in Laodicea. The church in Laodicea met in the
house of Nympha (Col 4:15) just as in Ephesus the Church met in
the house of Aquila and Priscilla (1 Cor 16:19), (Rom 16:5), and
in Corinth in the house of Gaius (Rom 16:23).
Although Acts does not mention it, the Apostle might have been
imprisoned during his stay in Ephesus. In his letters to the
churches in Greece, Macedonia and Asia he repeatedly refers to
his sufferings. If this bondage took place in Ephesus, the
charge which led to his imprisonment is not known. It has been
suggested that the Ephesian Jews may have built up a cose
against the Apostle, charging him with diverting sums of money
which had been collected from the churches he knew, as a relief
fund for Jerusalem and which he was carrying with him and that
normally would have been sent to its destination. The Jews may
have approached the Roman governor, and persuaded him to
imprison St Paul.
Writing to the church in Corinth from Ephesus, St Paul says 'We
do not want you to be unaware, brothers, of the affliction that
came to us in the province of Asia; we were utterly weighed down
beyond our strength, so that we despaired even of life. Indeed,
we had accepted within ourselves the sentence of death' (2 Cor
1:8-9], and on another ocasion he refers to his fighting, so to
speak, with beasts at Ephesus (1 Cor 15:32). In the Roman world
of the period there were only two ways that a person would have
fought wild animals. One was to be exposed to them in the arena,
in which case, except miraculously, survivals are unknown or by
becoming a professional beast-fighter, bestiarius, which was out
of question in St Paul's case. It is very probable that, when he
wrote the sentence, the Apostle imagined himself as a fighter of
this kind struggling not in flesh but spiritually against the
wickedness in Ephesus. The apocryphal Acts of Paul dwells on the
Apostle's imprisonment in the city. Here, the Ephesians beceme
angry at St Paul's speech and imprisoned him until he would be
thrown to the lions. Eubola and Artemilla, wives of eminent
Ephesian men, visited St Paul in the prison at night'desiring
the grace of divine washing'. The Apostle took them to the
Aegean shore and baptized them. The naming of the watch-tower,
which was once the closest to the sea, in the Hellenistic walls
of Ephesus as 'St Paul's prison' may have been inspired by this
event. Also in his apocryphal acts, St Paul was put into the
stadium and a huge lion was let loose on him. But the beast lay
down at his feet. The other animals which followed the lion also
did not touch the Apostle who stood like a statue in prayer.
Then a hailstorm poured down killing the other wild animals,
save the lion which escaped to the mountains. The hailstorm also
killed some men and sheared off the governor's ear. Seeing what
happened he accepted Christianity and was baptized.
St Paul had planned to stay in Ephesus until the feast of
Pentecost saying 'because a door has opened to me wide, and
productive for work' (1 Cor 16:8-9). Some scholars think that
this wide-opened door was occasioned by the annual festival of
Artemis which provided a splendid opportunity to do missionary
work, for during it the city was crowded with people from all
over Anatolia, the islands and Greece, The festival was held
during the month of Artemision which fell sometime in April or
May approximately to the Pentecost.
In the great Aegean coastal city of Ephesus a truly syncretistic
goddess had for centuries attracted her devotees. Here the
Anatolian fertility and earth mother goddess had been identified
with their own goddess Artemis by the Greek settlers a thousand
or so years earlier.
Though the Greek Artemis, the Roman Diana, a goddess of
chastity, the hunt and associated with animals, would seem to
bear little resemblance to a fecund earth mother deity, they
were both nature goddesses and often in their representations,
flanked by animals. Moreover, the temples of Artemis, like those
of the goddess who preceded her, are always aligned to the west,
rather than as with other gods, to the east. The statues of
Ephesian Artemis are perhaps the most visible evidence of the
syncretistic tendency of ancient religions and of the tolerance,
indeed courtesy extended to the gods of others, from whom
elements, or indeed the entire deity, might be adopted. With the
influence of Greek art, by St Paul's time, her figure hod lost
its large buttocks and big breasts, the symbols of fertility,
and was on the way to assuming the slender shape of a Greek
goddess. The most prominent feature of her image were the ovals
covering her upper body from waist to neck. These are thought to
represent the balls of bulls sacrificed for her during cultic
ceremonies and nailed to a wooden statue of the goddess.
The temple of Artemis, the Artemision, which stood in its own
precinct outside the city, to which it was joined by a
processional way, was regarded as one of the Seven Wonders of
the World in Hellenistic times, on account of its beauty and
vast size. The cult statue stood in her shrine, in a long,
narrow hall surrounded by 127 columns, forming a veritable
forest of marble. The temple also offered sanctuary to criminals
such as runaway slaves. It is not known if Onesimus, the slave
from Colossae, when he sought St Paul in Ephesus [Phlm 10], had
originally come to the city to shelter in Artemis' temple.
Except for the opportunities it offered as a refuge, the city is
situated too close to Colossae for a runaway slave.
As Demetrius, president of the silversmiths' guild claimed (Acts
19:27) Artemis, worshipped throughout Asia, was supported by the
number of pilgrims who attended her festival. She brought great
wealth to the city, not only through the sale of votives and
various offerings, but because of the large numbers of people
who came to her various celebrations and festivals. They had to
be fed, lodged, entertained and generally looked after. There
was extra work and extra money for everyone, be they jewellers,
bakers, washerwomen, fishmongers, shoemakers, musicians,
prostitutes, doctors or even lawyers. Festivals then, as now,
were big business, producing revenue for the city that held
them. But more than that, the city, namely its citizens, gained
esteem and lustre and no city in Anatolia was more esteemed or
illustrious than Ephesus.
St Paul's influence aroused the enmity of the guild of
silversmiths who made miniature shrines and offerings for
dedication to Artemis. An inscription1 which dates some forty
years after the riot mentions a single offering of 29 images,
probably similar to those of Demetrius and his fellow craftsmen.
Made of gold and silver and weighing from 1.5 to 4 kg each, they
were figures of the goddess with two stags and a variety of
smybolic figures. These objects dedicated to Artemis, were
carried in public processions throughout the city, and then
placed in her temple.
Instigated by Demetrius, president of the guild, a riot broke
out. St Paul's preaching obviously was threatening their trade.
After Demetrius had called together the members of the guild and
spoken to them about the economic consequences of St Paul's
teaching, they angrily rushed forth into the street. Their
momentum drew other people most of whom were ignorant of what
was going on. On their way to the theatre they seized the
Apostle's companions, Gaius and Aristarchus of Macedonia.
The scene of the riot was the Hellenistic theatre of Ephesus
which was then being enlarged with the addition of new seats for
spectators and a stage building. The Jews put forward a man
named Alexander to address the mob, probably because they feared
that the crowd might turn against them for their own hostility
to images. The crowd refused to hear him and for about two hours
shouted 'Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!'.
The 'clerk of the people' finally managed to calm the crowd.
After all the most important of his responsibilities was
avoiding disturbances of any kind in the city. He told them that
the supremacy of Artemis was not in peril, that the Christians
had neither robbed the temple nor blasphemed her, and everybody
knew that her statue had fallen from the sky. Thus when St Paul
preached that 'gods made by hands are not gods at all' (Acts
19:26) this was not questioning the origin of their goddess and
that for any complaints and disputes the courts were available.
He also pointed out that the real danger was not the loss of
trade but rather 'being charged with rioting', for which the
Roman authorities might punish the city.
St Paul wished to go among the crowd to defend himself, but was
prevented from doing so by the disciples and 'some of the
Asiarchs also, who were friends of his'.
Asiarchs were provincial officials responsible for the
politico-religious organization of Asia in the worship of the
goddess Roma and the emperors. They were in charge of the
festivals and games, and while they were priesfs from a
religious point of view, they were also officers of the imperial
service. One of the titles of the reigning Asiarch was 'High
Priest of Asia'. The reference in Acts to the representatives of
the offical Roman cult as friends of St Paul is an important
point. Acts does not inform us about the Apostle's imprisonment
by the Roman authorities and his sufferings. On the contrary it
tries to give the impression that St Paul and the other early
Christians moved within the confines of Roman law as they
preached a 'licit religion', and were protected by it. Just as
the town clerk's speech sounds like defending the Christian
message, so also is the reference to the Asiarchs as friends of
the Apostle. Thus, St Paul's troubles were just the result of
popular hostility, against which he was protected by friendly
Roman officials.
It was soon after the riot that Paul left the city, probably
following the advice of the Asiarchs. Acts does not inform us
about St Paul's route to Macedonia. His second letter to the
Corinthians (2 Cor 2:12) mentions his going Jo Alexandria Troas
first. His words give the impression that he may have not been
able to preach here when he stopped during his second journey
and now wanted to make it up. For this short trip if he did not
take a boat but traversed the country, cities like Smyrna,
Sardis and Pergamum, all with Jewish communities, stood on his
way and he would have visited them.
In Alexandria Troas St Paul waited for a while for Titus to join
him here. The latter had been sent to Corinth previously with
the so-called 'severe-letter'. When he did not show up St Paul
sailed to Neopolis then on to Philippi. St Paul's Greece and
Macedonia sojourn took three months. Acts informs us that just
as the Apostle was about to leave directly for Antioch on the
Orontes by ship the Jews in Greece had prepared an ambush
against him (Acts 20:3). While some of St Paul's party sailed to
Alexandria Troas from here, St Paul and St Luke changed their
minds and decided to travel overland to Macedonia which perhaps
seemed safer. After arriving at Philippi the Apostle and his
friend took a boat to Alexandria Troas and met their friends.
Altogether they stayed here for a week.
On the Saturday evening St Paul, his friends ond some other
Christians met in one of the houses in Alexandria Troas 'to
break bread'2, a term probably meant a fellowship meal in
anticipation of Jesus' return rather than the type recalling the
Last Supper. The place they met was probably a building of three
storeys with rooms encircling a central inner courtyard. Here
after the dinner, St Paul began a very long lecture and 'talked
on and on'; and the young Eutychus who was listening seated on a
window sill of the third floor fell all the way down, on the
floor of the room. He had fallen asleep, probably not only
because of the long lecture but also the wine he may have had or
the stuffy air caused by the resin torches or lamps in the room.
Everybody thought that Eutychus was dead; but St Paul throwing
himself on the young boy's body told the others that there was
nothing to worry about and the boy was fine. After his medical
miracle St Paul continued his talk which lasted until morning.
During this part of the journey the Apostle and his friends were
separated for a short while. While his friends took a boat St
Paul walked to Assos. The reason is not known. The Apostle's
companions may have decided that the hand of the plotting Jews
in Greece might have reached here and they did not want to put
St Paul on a ship they did not know. Or St Paul may have wanted
to be by himself for a while to clear his mind. The idea of
taking his ministry to Rome, his final goal, heart of the
Gentile world, had been on his mind for a long time, and he was
perhaps trying to make up his mind. He walked to Assos, the
closest city with a harbour and met his friends there. During
this long walk it would have been impossible to miss the sight
of the Hellenistic temple of Apollo Smitheon which was situated
by the road some 15 km from Alexandria Troas. The temple housed
a statue of Apollo crushing a mouse with his foot, made by the
sculpter Scopas (active 370-330 BCE).
Set on a steep sloping hill, with spectacular views across the
bay to Lesbos, Assos (Behramkoy) was a beautiful and ancient
city. It was now long past its great days, when in the fourth
century BCE, the eunuch Hermeias, a former student of Plato,
ruled here and whose friend Aristotle lived here for three years
and married Pythia, the ruler's niece. Most of the ruins which
have reached the present belong to the city which stood here at
the time of St Paul's visit. After walking for about 40 km from
Alexandria Troas to Assos, St Paul had, probably, neither the
energy nor interest for a sightseeing tour of the city. Upon
arrival he probably did not go up the acropolis but walked down
to the small harbour, which is still in use today, and boarded
the small coaster his companions had token. The temple of
Athena, which had stood on top of the hill since the sixth
century BCE, would have been visible to him completely only
after his vessel sailed some distance away from the harbour.
Thus the Apostle got on the boat and all together they sailed
from Assos to south making stops at the islands of Lesbos, Chios
and Samos to Trogyllium. After spending a night on Samos, St
Paul and his friends crossed to Anatolia and made another stop
before Miletus at a point named Trogyllium, mentioned only in
the Authorized Version of the Bible (Acts 20:15). It is thought
to have been situated on the southern shore of the cape formed
by Mt Mycale (Samsun Dağı) whose lip is only a kilometre from
Samos. Except for the shrine of Poseidon dedicated by twelve
Ionian cities on the opposite side of the promontory, which by
St Paul's time had already lost its popularity, there is no
information about any other settlement in this rugged area.
When St Paul's coaster sailed into the harbour of Miletus the
city stood on a promontory. Today, its remains lie some distance
from the sea, thanks to the activity of the Maeander river,
moving and depositing silt which was already becoming a major
problem then. The river was then on the opposite side of the
gulf, but now partly encircles the site in a large loop round
the north. The best example of the silting up process is the
gentle mound beyond the city, once the island of Lade, off
which, in 494 BCE, 80 Milesian ships fought in vain against the
Persians during the Ionian revolt.
The origin of the Christian congregation in Miletus is not
known. While St Paul may have visited the city during his long
Ephesus stay and proclaimed the gospel, the Milesians may have
also attended his preaching in Ephesus and been converted. The
existence of a Jewish congregation in the city and their
interest in public spectacles is also attested to by an
inscription on one of the steps of the large theatre, which in
Greek reads 'Place for Jews who were also god-fearers'. The last
word theosebeis which may also be translated as 'worshippers of
God' is, in addition to Acts, used in ancient literature and
encountered in inscriptions after the third century CE. The
expression is thought to refer to Gentiles with a sort of
attachment to the local Jewish community, although the extent of
their association is not known and its meaning is thought to
have varied from one place to the other. Nevertheless, it is
known that the word referred to other people than proselytes who
were circumcised. The Miletus inscription is thought to refer to
either the local Jews themselves who may have used the term
allegorically, or to proselytes who had become Jews, loudaioi,
after having been circumcised and retained their previous
definition. Although excavations have brought to light the
traces of the existence of a synagogue by the harbour it is not
known if its history went back to St Paul's time.
A stop in Ephesus may have caused new problems for St Paul and
his friends. He may have wished to avoid the risk of meeting his
enemies. Nevertheless, it is not known if the Jewish community
in Miletus fared better than that of Ephesus. From Miletus St
Paul sent to Ephesus and called to him the elders of the church.
It is not known where St Paul summoned the Ephesian elders. This
is regarded one of the most touching episodes in the Acts of the
Apostles. He reminded them of the opposition of the Jews in
Ephesus which had caused him tears, trials, and imprisonment.
That St Paul made such a brief visit to a place with a large
Jewish community, with the express purpose of seeing the elders
from Ephesus and presumably other Asian centres, suggests that
by now he no longer took the gospel to the Jews, or at least,
not here. Now he was on his way to Jerusalem expecting more
affliction, which he saw as a culmination of his ministry. He
was deeply concerned about heretics and schismatics in Ephesus,
and he admonished the elders to remain alert, commending them to
God. The elders wept that they would not see the Apostle again.
Acts does not inform us about the length of the Apostle's stay
here. After he decided that his mission here was over, putting
the church in their care he walked to the harbour of farewell
and embarked on a ship and continued his return voyage to
Caesarea.
The Anatolian part of St Paul's return trip which began at Assos
came to an end at the Lycian port of Patara. Until here the
Apostle probably used one or more small coasters which sailed
for short laps from one Greek island or port to the other
carrying any kind of available passenger or merchandise along
the coast of Anatolia. At Patara the Apostle and his companions
had to find another vessel, obviously a larger one which could
sail the high seas, bound to Tyre on the Phoenician coast (Acts
21 :l-2).
Patara on the south west Lycian coast was one of the principal
cities of the region. Its original Lycian name was 'Pttara',
later mistakenly thought to have derived from the Latin patera,
a sort of cup. It obviously owed its existence to a narrow but
long natural harbour at the mouth of the river Xanthus (Esen
cayi) which is now flowing on the northwest of the ruins. The
city was also famous for its oracle of Apollo, where it was
believed, the god spent the winter, having been in Delos for the
summer. Apollo was the most popular god in Lycia where he was
worshipped as 'Lykeios', 'Wolf God' and had given the region its
name5. Most of what is visible at the site today had not been
constructed when St Paul changed ships here and dates mainly
from the late first and more so, the second centuries. The only
visible construction that St Paul might have seen on his very
brief visit, was a small theatre which lay on a hillside to the
south east, at the same spot asthe present day one half hidden
by dunes and the forerunner of the colossal lighthouse which
helped pilots to locate the entrance of the harbour at night
situated an the same hill.
Sometime after St Paul stopped here Patara became one of the
Roman grain supply stations and in the reign of Hadrian (1
17-38), who is known to have visited the city, a large granary
was built on the western side of the quay. The giant rock-cut
cistern situated on top of the mountain above the theatre whose
history must have dated to the pre-Pauline period is clear
evidence of the scarcity of the sweet water supply in this dry
and hot region. The miracles of St Nicholas, who was born in
Patara and would later become famous as the bishop of Myra in
the fourth century, which are related to the discovery and
purification of wells, were not incidental and show the value
that the local people afforded to water.