SAINT PAUL'S FIRST JOURNEY
Antioch on the Orontes — Seleucia
Pieria — Salamis — Paphos — Perge — Antioch in Pisidia —
Iconium — Lystra — Derbe — Lystra — Iconium — Antioch in
Pisidia — Perge — Attaleia — Seleucia Pieria — Antioch
on the Orontes
In the spring of the year 47 Sts Paul and Barnabas,
accompanied by John Mark, set out on their first
missionary journey from Antioch on the Orontes.
It was St Barnabas who had gone from Antioch on the
Orontes to Tarsus, found St Paul and explained him what
was being asked from them. His background, as both a
Levite, namely a member of a Jewish priestly family,
descended from Aoron, the brother of Moses and a
Hellenistic Jew from the diaspora, was not dissimilar to
St Paul's. He could speak Greek and was familiar with
pagans. John Mark, St Barnabas' cousin, probably owed
his participancy in the journey as the third member of
the group to St James. If John Mark was the young man
who had followed Jesus into the Garden of Gethsemane
'wearing nothing but a linen cloth' and who left his
garment 'behind and ran off naked' (Mk 14:51), he must
have met Jesus Christ and knew his life and thus could
help the preaching of his companions as an eyewitness.
Although the distance between Antioch and Seleucia was
no more than 15 km as the bird flies, the region was
rugged and overland transportation was very difficult.
The Apostles probably sailed downstream by the Orontes
to reach Seleucia, which must have taken a day. There,
according to the fifth century apocryphal Acts of
Barnabas they had to wait for three days to find a ship
bound to Cyprus. The memory of their departure must have
lingered for a long time because during the previous
century each of the two piers of the outer harbor of the
city, until they disappeared under water, was named
after one of the Apostles.
Cyprus, the island to which their first journey took
them was situated at the centre of the eastern
Mediterranean, crossroads of ancient civilizations. St
Barnabas was a native of Salamis and would have known
the island well, hence perhaps the decision to come
here.
The island's earliest inhabitants are thought to have
been immigrants from Syrian and Cilician coasts. On
clear days the silhouette of the Troodos chain of Cyprus
is visible from these countries; and thus small rafts
must have been sufficient to take the first inhabitants
there.
The rich copper deposits of the island are thought to
have been utilized since the beginning of the Bronze
Age, sometime around 3000 BCE, and have given the island
its name1. Ox-hide copper ingots brought to light by
underwater archaeology indicate that, in addition to
agricultural produce such as wine, corn and olive oil,
this metal was the most important source of wealth for
the islanders. Being on ancient trade routes the island
was influenced by the Anatolian cultures, and the
civilizations of Mesopotamia, Egypt, Crete, Greece and
Sicily. Kition, its capital and the most flourishing
city of the Bronze Age is thought to be the Alasia
mentioned in the Hittite cuneiform tablets. The Old
Testament term 'kittim' referred to the inhabitants of
this city and was later used for Cypriots in general and
eventually for Greeks and even Romans. Like Anatolia,
Greece, the Aegean islands and the eastern Levant, in
about 1 200 BCE Cyprus suffered the destruction of the
Sea Peoples. Some of these immigrants may have also
settled on the island. The strongest Greek element
introduced to the ancient culture of Cyprus dates to
this period. When Cyprus recovered from the Dark Age
(about 1200-800 BCE) it was ruled successively by the
Assyrians, Phoenicians, Egyptians and Persians.
The Greek city states which were established on the
island took a short respite after the conquest of
Alexander's navy in 333 BCE. Meanwhile Petra tou Romiou,
some 20 km to the southeast of Paphos, had traditionally
become the place where the goddess Aphrodite was born
from foam. During the Hellenistic era the island was
under the hegemony of the Ptolemies of Egypt which ended
in 58 BCE with the conquest of Rome. Thus, at the time
that the Apostles' ship sailed into the harbour of
Salamis the island was a part of the Roman empire with a
Roman governor.
Although the Romans had chosen Paphos for the residency
of the proconsul, Salamis was still the most important
city in Cyprus. At the time that Sts Paul and Barnabas
reached the city it boasted the institutions of a large
Hellenistic polls: a theater and a gymnasium both of
which were being enlarged during this period.
At Salamis, where there was a large Jewish community,
known to have come here after Augustus leased the salt
mines on the island to king Herod the Great [37-4 BCE),
the first Christians were probably some of those who had
to leave Jerusalem when the persecutions began. In Acts,
one of the Cypriot converts is mentioned as 'Mnason, a
Cypriot, a disciple of long standing' at whose house St
Paul would stay in Jerusalem when he returned from his
third journey (Acts 21:16],
There is not any information about the content of the
Apostles' message in Cyprus but that they proclaimed the
word of God in the synagogues. The fifth-century
apocryphal Acts of Barnabas mentions a synagogue which
was 'near the place called biblia, where Barnabas,
having unrolled the gospel which he had received from
Matthew his fellow-labourer, began to teach Jews'.
Excavations in Salamis have not yet brought to light any
synagogue of St Paul's era or later. All of the early
synagogues must hove been destroyed following the big
Jewish revolt which began in Egypt and spread to the
island (1 15-17). When the rebellion was suppressed 'no
Jew was allowed to appear on the island' by the order of
the emperor Trojan.
From Salamis the Apostles travelled across the island or
'through the whole island' [Acts 13:6) to Paphos. The
expression, probably, is used to imply that in addition
to those of Salamis and Paphos, some of the other Jewish
communities were visited. The trip would have been made
either by following the coast or transversing the
island. During the Apostles' calls the Cypriots probably
knew more about St Barnabas whom they later regarded as
their patron saint, than St Paul. His given name,
Barnabas (from Hebrew barnebhuah=son of 'prophecy'), may
infer a role as a prophet or teacher. Previously in
Jerusalem, he had 'sold a piece of property that he
owned, then brought the money at the feet of the
apostles' (Acts 4:37). In Acts his name is interpreted
by St Luke as 'son of consolation'.
The apocryphal Acts of Barnabas states that they visited
Lapithus (Lapta) along the northern coast of the island
where they were not received well because of the 'idol
Festival' which was being celebrated then. They
continued 'through the mountains and came to the city of
Lampadistus' which is now identified with the resort of
Kalopanayiotis village some 70 km to the southwest of
the island's present capital. During their wanderings
they had to take refuge in 'the village of the Ledrians'
from the Jews who opposed them and were looking for
them. Ledra is the ancient name of Nicosia (Lefkose).
In Paphos, where a well-established Jewish community is
thought to have existed, the Apostles were summoned to
speak in the presence of Sergius Paulus, the Roman
governor who had a Jewish sorcerer named Elymas
Bar-Jesus. During this period employment of magicians or
sorcerers by rich people was popular; worshipping one or
more gods or cults was common. As he had shown interest
in what Elymas represented, the governor wonted to hear
about the cult of the new speaker. To the magician, St
Paul must have appeared as a rival and he tried to
prevent his patron from hearing the Apostle's preaching.
St Paul, calling upon the power of the Holy Spirit,
temporarily struck blind the sorcerer. This miracle so
impressed the governor that when he 'saw what had
happened he came to believe, for he was astonished by
the teaching about the Lord' (Acts 13:12).
St Paul seems to have employed the method which would
have been used by any magician of the time. Fixing his
eyes on his opponent, he cursed him so that Bar-Jesus,
at least temporarily, lost his eyesight. It has been
suggested that the phrase may refer to 'spiritual
blindness' which later led to the story of 'actual
blindness'. One may also infer that the blinding of the
magician, a false prophet, opened the governor's eyes.
The conversion of Sergius Paulus, however, could not
have had an immediate role on the spread of Chrislianity
in the island, because proconsuls were usually appointed
for one year periods and there was no reason why the
Cypriots should follow the religion of the Roman
administrator.
From this point on, in Acts, the Apostle is not referred
to as Saul, but Paul. Early Christian writings suggest
that the Apostle changed his name after this Famous
conversion. Nevertheless, choosing Greek names was not
unusual among Jews even before the time of St Paul and
it did not necessarily indicate a hellenizing tendency.
It has been also claimed that here the change of the
Apostle's name refers to a change in his role; from
being a Jew among Jews in the Semitic world of
Palestine, to a Roman citizen in the hall of a Roman
proconsul, in the Gentile world. Thus his ancient royal
name had lost its importance. This governor, however, is
said to have been Lucius Sergius Paulus a native of
Antioch in Pisidia who later became a consul in Rome. It
is probable that he suggested St Paul should go to
Antioch in Pisidia where he had relatives and estates
and even gave him letters of introduction.
A Cypriot legend maintains that the Apostles were
imprisoned and scourged in Paphos before their encounter
with the governor. A broken column in the former church
of Chrysopolitissa (also known as of St Kriake) near New
Paphos is said to have been used to tie up St Paul and
lash him 39 times. The tradition of 'columns of
flagellations' seems to have been inspired by St Paul's
words that five times at the hand of the Jews he was
scourged 'forty lashes minus one' (2 Cor 1 1:24).
According to the book of Deuteronomy forty stripes, but
no more, may be given to a man whom the judge found
guilty, in order not to disagrace his relatives 'because
of the severity of the beating' [Dt 25:2-3). With the
standards of the time this was regarded as a mild
punishment. It has also been suggested that the
expression, probably, did not refer to the number of
strokes but the type of whip, which had 39 cords tied in
three bands of thirteen cords. The story in Paphos might
have even been inspired by the incident in Jerusalem
when the centurion gave instructions for the
Interrogation of St Paul under the lash (Acts 22:24).
After a few years St Barnabas returned to his island
together with his cousin John Mark. There is no
scriptural record about the return of St Barnabas to
Cyprus. Tradition has It that he was martyred in his
native city Salamis probably about 61 and secretly
buried.
From Cyprus the Apostles sailed to Perge in Pamphylia.
This sea voyage may have taken about three days.
Pamphylia was a narrow coastal plain between the Taurus
chain and the Mediterranean extending from Cilicia to
the heights of Lycia. It had been settled by a people of
Anatolian origin and later by Greeks. The latter began
to settle here after the great migrations around 1 200
BCE ond chose Trojan heroes as their ancestors. Amongst
its prosperous cities were, in addition to Perge,
Attaleia (Antalya), Side and Coracesium (Alanya).
Perge may have been the destination of the ship's
captain, a situation with which the Apostles seem to
have complied. The Cestrus river (Aksu) that ran by the
east of Perge, having no delta, was navigable from the
sea and the Apostles' vessel soiled against the slow
moving current up to the city, which by the middle of
the first century had began moving from the original
settlement on the acropolis to the flat plain.
At the time of St Paul's arrival Perge was entering an
era of great prosperity. Most of the standing remains
are of a later date, but the walls, theatre and the
circular Hellenistic towers of the main gate were there
when the Apostles came to this city. If one walked on
the main street to the north one would have reached the
palaestra, dedicated to the emperor Claudius (41-54).
Later, in the early second century CE, the oval area
flanked by the towers was converted into a beautiful
marble-lined courtyard with niches housing statues of
the gods, the family of the emperor, the mythical
founders of the city and various celebrities. St Paul
would certainly have seen the temple of Artemis of Perge
which was described by Strabo as being 'near Perge on a
lofty site, to the temple where a general festival is
celebrated every year'.
Apart from St Paul's brief visits and his preaching
here, little is known about early Christianity in Perge.
The apocyrphal Acts of Barnabas mentions a two-month
stay in Perge. Here John Mark left them to return to
Jerusalem. In Acts there is no indication why John Mark
left. It has been suggested that he may have been
jealous of St Paul who by then hod assumed the
leadership of the party. Or, he may have worried about
the brigands who haunted the Pisidian heights. It is
also claimed that St Paul's plans to bring the gospel to
Gentiles may have been regarded unacceptable by John
Mark. Or was he shocked and lost heart when he saw St
Paul all of a sudden sick? If this sickness were
epilepsy, seeing the Apostle with his eyes rolled up and
foam at his mouth which had to be gagged ond his body
rigid as stone may have disappointed the young man.
Whatever happened in Perge, the event affected St Paul's
faith in John Mark (Acts 15:36-41), although it did not
affect his feelings towards St Barnabas. St Paul and
John Mark were eventually reconciled, for many years
later in his letter to the Colossians, St Paul wrote
'Mark the cousin of Barnabas (concerning whom you have
received instructions; if he comes to you, receive him]'
(Col 4:10) and in his second letter to Timothy (4:1 1),
'Get Mark and bring him with you, for he is helpful to
me in the ministry'.
Some scholars believe that the reason for St Paul's
moving to Pisidia and southern Galatia was the illness
he contracted, perhaps malaria. Otherwise, for winning
new converts the cosmopolitan coastal cities of
Pamphylia were certainly more favourable than the
scarcely populated northern highlands. Later when the
Apostle says 'you know that it was because of a physical
illness that I originally preached the gospel to you,
and you did not show disdain or contempt because of the
trial caused by my physical condition, but rather you
received me as an angel of God, as Jesus Christ' (Gal
4:13-14) he refers to his sickness. Whatever his
sickness6 was, the Apostle's words make it clear that
fresh mountain air was better for it than the hot and
humid coastal plain.
The narrow passes of the Taurus chain were closed
through the winter months, and thus the Apostles are
thought to have begun journeying north before snow began
falling. Shortly after coming out of Perge the main
Roman road was split into two and the path which turned
to west crossed the mountains to the north of Attaleia
and continued northwest towards Laodicea.
If St Paul took this longer road to reach Antioch in
Pisidia he would have probably travelled to Cremna and
Sagalassus, and ended up on the Via Sebaste which
encircled the lakes Anava (Burdur) and Limnai (Egridir)
to the north. St Paul, however, eager both to leave the
humid plain as quickly as possible, and reach his
destination where he expected to make new Gentile
converts, very probably took the second much shorter
route. This road connected Perge to Antioch in Pisidia
by way of Adada following the path of the Cestrus river,
by a route which was used until recently by nomads and
because of the high number of crossings is known in
Turkish as 'Kırk Geçitler', 'Forty Passes'. The
uncountable number of crossings on the ravine must have
been a very difficult experience, for when St Paul later
says 'on frequent journeys, in dangers from rivers,
dangers from robbers' (2 Cor 1 1:26), he is thought to
allude to this part of his travels, to the deep gorges
of Cestrus, dangerous even in autumn when dry. Adada was
the most important ancient city on this route to Antioch
in Pisidia and is still known by the local villagers as
'Karabavlu', 'Black Paul'.
On such a rugged track their trip may have taken about
ten days or more to reach inland. A few decades before
the Romans had pacified the Pisidian heights. Despite
this, the Apostles probably joined a group of travellers
going in the same direction, and waited until a crowd
big enough to discourage the bandits from attacking them
was gathered.
Having lost the battle of Magnesia (190 BCE) against
Rome, the Seleucids had retreated to the south of the
Taurus mountains ond the Seleucid hegemony in the north
was taken over by the Galatians, who ruled as a vassal
kingdom of Rome. This lasted until their last king
Amyntas' (37-25 BCE) death, when the region was made a
Roman province. With the exception of Derbe, the three
cities 5t Paul visited in this region (Antioch in
Pisidia, Iconium, Lystra) were Roman colonies. They were
settled by Italian war veterans and immigrants who
brought with them their native political and social
institutions. Their function was to guard the Roman
military routes against the Pisidian mountain tribes.
Antioch in Pisidia (Yalvac] lies on the slope of a
mountain overlooking a fertile valley northeast of lake
Limnai, by the river Anthius (Yalvaç çayı). The city was
probably founded by Seleucus I (31 2-281 BCE) and again
named after his father Antiochus. It was called 'Antioch
ad Pisidiam', 'Antioch in ('towards or 'next to'}
Pisidia' in order to distinguish it from a number of
Antiochs that the king had founded. Near the Phrygian
and Pisidian borders, the city was settled with
Macedonian soldiers. The population was doubtless
expanded by local Phrygians, as the city's main deities
were Anatolian: Cybele the Great Mother, whose main
sanctuary lay north at Pessinus, and the moon god Men,
to whom numerous votives were offered by Antiochenes at
his temple at the top of a nearby mountain at Karakuyu.
Antioch in Pisidia was an important city for the Romans
during their war with the Homonadeis, a people who had
preyed on the Pisidian heights and the first colony in
the region, named Colonia Caesarea Antiochea. The
pacification of the Pisidian heights was achieved by the
consul Publius Sulpicius Quirinius who is said to have
left no man free in the countryside and forced the
younger generation to adopt Roman customs. By 6 BCE the
Taurus range had become quiet and the consul was
transferred to Syria, which he was to govern, and to
hold the great census at the time when Jesus Christ was
born in Bethlehem (Lk 2:1 -7).
Some scholars think that although physical
preoccupations may explain St Paul's preference of
preaching the gospel to the people in the cool heights
(Gal 4:13) rather those in the damp and hot Pamphylian
lowlands, this is not enough to explain why he did not
go from Perge to any of the better-populated and
better-situated cities such as Sagalassus or Cremna but
turned directly towards Antioch in Pisidia.
Antioch's elite families were descended from the Italian
colonists and one of them was a relative of the
proconsul of Cyprus, Sergius Paulus who had been
converted to Christianity by St Paul a few months ago.
It is possible that this contact, with all the
possibilities it suggested, was one of the reasons for
the Apostle's visit to Antioch in Pisidia where he hoped
to make similar highly-placed converts, lulius Sergius
Paullus, whose name is encountered on a stone discovered
at Antioch is believed to be the son or grandson of
Sergius Paulus of Cyprus.
Although the city was the largest in the region there is
no information about the size of the Jewish community.
The evidence of the existence of a Jewish people in the
area comes from a second- or third-century-CE epitaph
found in Apollonia (Uluborlu) which refers to a Jewess
named Debbora, a citizen of Antioch, married to a man
from Sillyum in Pamphylia who is thought to have settled
in Apollina. This epitaph says that Debbora was 'born of
renowned parents'. The name is, however, Semitic and
implies that her 'renowned parents' probably lived in
Antioch on the Orontes rather than Antioch in Pisidia.
When the Apostles entered the synagogue9, they sat down
with the rest of the congregation and prayed. After the
prayers and the readings they were invited to address
the assembly. According to Jewish custom, as Jesus had
done before (Lk 4:16), a person was free to speak in the
synagogue (Acts 17:1-2). After delivering his address
here St Paul was invited to preach on the next sabbath.
When, subsequently, St Paul drew a large crowd of Jews
and Gentiles, some Jewish members of the regular
congregation became so angry that they 'stirred up the
devout and honourable women, and the chief men of the
city, and raised persecution against Paul and Barnabas,
and expelled them' (Acts 13:50).
St Paul might have hoped that not only Jews, but also
Gentiles from important families who were Jewish
sympathizers, and so sometimes attended the synagogue,
would perhaps accept his Christian message. In the
event, it was to the Jews of Antioch rather than to St
Paul, that these well-connected people gave support and
the Apostles were persecuted and expelled from Antioch.
When he later speaks about his sufferings and says
'Three times I was beaten with rods' (2 Cor 1 1:25), a
magistrate's punishment with the rods of Roman lictors,
one of the cases may have been here at Antioch in
Pisidia.
Nevertheless, some converts were made, and although
their number may not have been high it was the first
time a church of Gentiles isolated from the Jewish
community was established. It was probably this fact
which kindled the anger of the local Jews against the
Apostles.
Sts Paul and Barnabas returned here from Iconium before
going on to Perge 'Confirming the souls of the disciples
and exhorting them to continue in the faith' (Acts
14:22). It is very probable that St Paul came here in
the course of his second and third journeys because the
region was on his way to the province of Asia, Macedonia
and Greece.
Almost none of the ruins which can be seen today,
probably with the exception of the aqueduct which
brought water from a spring 10 km north, were here when
St Paul came. The temple of Augustus and Tiberius'
courtyard with the street leading to it were under
construction.
Thus shaking 'the dust from their feet' so as not no be
defiled by a heathen community the Apostles left. The
expression has been used by Christ in his teaching of
the mission to the Twelve Apostles (Mk 6:1 1; Lk 9:5) as
a testimony against the people who rejected the call to
repentance.
During this period the region where Iconium, Lystra and
Derbe were located was known as Lycaonia with Iconium as
its capital. To get to Iconium the Apostles probably
took the Roman military road, the Via Sebaste. It was
built by the magistrate Cornutus Aquila in 6 BCE and
named in honour of Augustus. By the time of St Paul's
visits the road had become a network connecting the
Roman colonies of Pisidia with each other and served as
the main artery between the province of Asia and Cilicia
and Syria. Iconium had already a very long history when
it was visited by the Apostles and was known as
Claudio-Conium after the Roman colony which Claudius had
founded by the existing Greek settlement.
In Iconium (Konya) 'they entered the Jewish synagogue
and spoke in such a way that a great number of both Jews
and Greeks came to believe' (Acts 14:1). However, not
all the Jews believed and the Christian message gave
rise to argument and division in the city, rather than
to brotherly love. The Apostles' stay in the city was
perhaps several months long. Hearing that their
adversaries were planning to stone them, St Paul and his
companions fled- Nevertheless, they returned here from
Lystra to exhort the faithful, before leaving the
region.
Though not specifically mentioned, it is possible that
St Paul came again to Iconium when passing through
Galatia on his second and third journeys. The only other
material relating to St Paul's stay in Iconium is the
romantic story about him and Thecla in the apocryphal
Acts of Paul. In antiquity the easternmost of the two
conical mountain peaks which command the landscape of
Iconium to the west was named after her. The other one
is named after St Philip who according to one tradition
travelled to Hierapolis and Ephesus by way of Iconium.
Fleeing from Iconium, the Apostles seem to have found
themselves on the road to Lystra which was about a day's
walk by the Via Sebaste, some 30 km south.
At Lystra there was a crippled man, lame from birth, who
had never walked. He listened to St Paul speaking, who
looked intently at him, saw that he had the faith to be
healed, and called out in a loud voice, 'Stand up
straight on your feet'. He jumped up and began to walk
about. When the crowds saw what Paul had done, they
cried out in Lycaonian: 'The gods have come down to us
in human form'. They called St Barnabas 'Zeus' and St
Paul 'Hermes', because the latter was the chief speaker
(Acts 14:8-12).
Obviously the people with whom the Apostles first came
in contact were the uneducated local population and when
St Paul healed a cripple they were at first thought to
be gods, and the people hailed them in their native
tongue as Zeus and Hermes.
In Lystra the crowds' belief that the gods had arrived
in their city in the likeness of men was not surprising.
In their world gods often made themselves visible, even
participated in the banquets prepared in their honour.
Early Christian writings mention St Barnabas' having a
tall and imposing appearance and this must have caused
him to be identified with Zeus. St Paul, the speaker
less significant than his companion, could be Hermes,
the god with the gift of eloquence.
The anthropomorphic pagan gods worshipped in the region
included Zeus/ Jupiter and Hermes/Mercury. Hermes
(Mercury), herald and messenger of gods and protector of
travellers was a well-known god whose shrines were
encountered even between milestones. It is known that in
some parts of Anatolia, Zeus was associated with other
deities.
Although the very persons whom the Apostles encountered
at this point may not have known it, Greek mythology
associates the region with the visit of Zeus and Hermes
during the time of the great flood as told by the Roman
poet Ovid in Metamorphoses written a few decades before
St Paul was born:
'Jupiter visited this place, disguised as a mortal, and
Mercury, the god who carries the magic wand, laid aside
his wings and accompanied his father. The two gods went
to a thousand homes, looking for somewhere to rest, and
found a thousand homes bolted and barred against them.
However, one house took them in: it was, indeed, a
humble dwelling roofed with thatch and reeds from the
marsh, but a good-hearted old woman, Baucis by name, and
her husband Philemon, who was the same age as his wife,
had been married in that cottage in their youth, and had
grown grey in it together...So, when the heaven-dwellers
reached this humble home and, stooping down, entered its
low doorway, the old man set chairs for them, and
invited them to rest their weary limbs; Baucis bustled
up anxiously to throw a rough piece of cloth over the
chair, and stirred up the warm ashes on the hearth,
fanning the remains of yesterday's fire...Her husband
had brought in some vegetables from his
carefully-watered garden, and these she stripped of
their outer leaves. Philemon took a two-pronged fork and
lifted down a side of smoked bacon that was hanging from
the blackened rafters; then he cut off a small piece of
their long-cherished meat, and boiled it till it was
tender in the bubbling water. Meanwhile the old couple
chattered on, to pass the time, and kept their guests
from noticing the delay. There was a beechwood bowl
there, hanging from a nail by its curved handle, which
was filled with warm wafer, and the visitors washed in
this, to refresh themselves. On a couch with frame and
legs of willow wood lay a mattress, stuffed with soft
sedge grass. Baucis and Philemon covered this with the
cloths which they used to put out only on solemn
holidays...Then the gods took their places for the meal.
The meal that the poor couple prepared for the gods
included various delicacies. After wiping the table with
some stacks of fresh mint, Baucis placed wild cherries,
radishes, cheese, eggs roasted in ashes, nuts, figs,
dates, plums and wine. When the dinner was over Zeus and
Hermes revealed themselves.
"We are gods", they
said, "and this wicked neighbourhood is going to be
punished as it richly deserves; but you will be allowed
to escape this disaster. All you have to do is to leave
your home, and climb up the steep mountainside with us".
The two old people both did as they were told and,
leaning on their sticks, struggled up the long slope.
When they were a bowshot distant from the top, they
looked round and saw all the rest of their country
drowned in marshy waters, only their own home left
standing. As they gazed in astonishment, and wept for
the fate of their people. Their old cottage, which had
been small, even for two, was changed into a temple:
marble columns took the place of its wooden supports,
the thatch grew yellow, till the roof seemed to be made
of gold, the doors appeared magnificently adorned with
carvings, and marble paved the earthen floor.
Among the archaeological material which is brought to
light in the central Anatolia and related to Hermes or
Zeus, the most interesting is a sculpted bust of the
latter accompanied by an image of an eagle, his
attribute, and Hermes, his travel companion during the
terrestrial sojourn in Phrygia.
The news of the wonder worked by the two strangers
spread through the streets of Lystra and the priest of
the temple of Zeus hurried to find sacrificial bulls
bearing garlands. The Apostles tore their garments in
the customary Jewish reaction against blasphemy, an act
also encountered in Acts 1 8:6 and Mark 14;63. In answer
to the pagan Lycaonians the Apostle, 'Hermes' called
upon their experience and knowledge of God, who at last
had given a supreme revelation of himself, to turn 'from
these idols to the living God', advice which he would
later repeat to the philosophers of Athens (Acts
17:24-31}.
The events in Lystra give us an idea of how things were
in a small Anatolian pagan town at the time of St Paul's
missionary journeys. The Apostles may have encountered
many a similar settlement and event during their
travels. A similar incident would later happen in Malta
where St Paul's ship was wrecked during his journey to
Rome. Here, when the native barbarians saw a viper
hanging from St Paul's hand without doing him any harm,
they thought that he was a god disguised as a man (Acts
28:3-5). The event also brings to mind the centurion
Cornelius' falling at the feet of St Peter when he is
greeting the latter in a manner appropriate to a deity
(Acts 10:25). Both archaeological findings and ancient
literature show that if there was one thing that
Anatolia of this period was not short of, it was gods
and goddesses. This was a period when politics, social
and economic life, fortune and the future of people were
all integrated into religion. Be it a metropolis like
Ephesus or a countryside town like Lystra, sanctuaries
and altars of smaller or larger size could be seen
everywhere. There were even nameless altars dedicated to
'unknown gods' so that the deities whose worship may
have been neglected unknowingly should not be offended.
Acts does not say if the Apostles were successful in
Lystra. However, at least a family of a grandmother,
Lois, mother, Eunice, and son, Timothy accepted the
Christian faith (2 Tim 1:5). The grandmother and the
mother were Jewesses and the mother had married a Greek.
Her son, Timothy, although not circumcised, probably had
been raised in the manner of a Jewish youth. He would
become a travel companion of St Paul during next journey
and serve as his secretary.
The place of Lystra (Hatunsaray) has been identified by
the discovery of a stone altar, standing in its original
site, which gives the name of the site as Lustra. Its
inscription indicates the existence of a temple
dedicated to Augustus in the city. This may have been
the temple of Zeus referred to as being 'at the entrance
to the city' (Acts 14:13).
Yet from Lystra too, having preached the gospel,
they were expelled, at the behest of a delegation of
in his letters St Paul would refer to these events
saying 'once I was stoned' (2 Cor 1 1.25) and also
'persecutions, and sufferings, such as happened to me in
Antioch, Iconium, and Lystra, persecutions that I
endured' (2 Tim 3:1 1).
Derbe was, however, the only place where the Apostles
were not persecuted. Acts just mentions that they
preached the gospel and made many disciples although
only one, Gaius of Derbe, is mentioned by name (Acts
20:4). Later, when St Paul in his letter to the
Galatians said 'you did not show disdain or contempt
because of the trial caused you by my physical
condition, but rather you received me as an angel of the
God, and Christ Jesus' (Gal 4:14) he may have been
addressing particularly the people of Derbe. Also, later
when he refers to the past 'persecutions, and
sufferings, such as happened to me in Antioch, Iconium,
and Lystra' he does not mention Derbe among these
cities.
The site of Derbe (Kerti Hoyuk) was located a few
decades ago owing to an inscription discovered at the
site. There is almost nothing known about the history of
the settlement except the fact that in the first century
BCE the settlement served as headquarters for a
notorious tyrant named Antipater until he was killed by
the Galatian king Amyntas (37-25 BCE) and that it was
also occupied during the Byzantine period.
From Derbe the Apostles could have travelled overland to
Antioch on the Orontes by way of the Cilician Gates.
This might have been more practical than going back
through the cities of the furious Jewish communities
they had visited or by the deep gorges of the Cestrus
river. Also they would have avoided the hot coastal
plain unsuitable for the Apostle's health.
St Paul however, returned by the same way he hod
travelled before. From Derbe they retraced their steps
to Lystra, Iconium, Antioch in Pisidia and Perge. In
each of these places they ordained elders or presbyters,
whose duties would have consisted of instructing the new
converts and baptising children. This shows that, in
spite of difficulties, they had made some converts. The
early history of the most of these established churches
is clouded in darkness.
The visits to these inland cities, with the exception of
Antioch in Pisidia, probably incidental. St Paul's
missionary objective was directed to the well-populated
urban centres, often situated on the coast; and thus
accessible by the sea. Despite his failure in the
region, however, his determination would not permit him
to forget the Galatians and he would visit them again
and again on both his second and third journeys.
Acts (14:25) informs us that St Paul, on his return from
this journey from Antioch in Pisidia went to Attaleia
after preaching at Perge. Although the Apostles preached
at Perge twice the narrator of Acts does not give any
information concerning new converts or whether they were
persecuted. It is not known whether St Paul's purpose in
going Attaleia was to proclaim the gospel there,
something he had missed when he first arrived in
Pamphylia from Cyprus, or just to find a vessel bound
for Seleucia Pieria from where they could easily travel
to Antioch on the Orontes. Attaleia was founded by the
king Attalus II (159-138 BCE) of Pergamum and at this
time was a thriving Roman port. Among the ruins which
are visible today there is nothing which dates back to
the time of St Paul except the ancient harbour which was
in use then. As the boat of the Apostles slowly moved
out of the harbour and the worn out peaks of the Taurus
mountains rose in the distance the Apostle had covered
about 2,000 km, mostly on foot during this first
journey.